Where to eat and drink at Lesser Town

Potato soup in bread This time I come with a very interesting where-to-eat-and-drink tip. I’ve come to know it as it happens through a friend. And I started to like it at once and it became one of my favourite spots where I take friends who visit me in Prague. Let’s not beat about the bush, though. The restaurant is called Baracnicka Rychta (I have no idea what is the English equivalent), and when you enter it, you carry yourselves years to the back.

The location is perfect, at Lesser Town (Mala Strana), near the embassy of USA, walk few meters to the Alchymist hotel, and turn to the right to the one-way street. The address is Trziste 23 and again, it is really beautifully situated. I realize that there are very many restaurants with top service, setting, location, etc., but there are only few that are situated in the historical centre and keep local prices for local people, and this is one of them! We arrived in the early evening, and the place was full, there was just one little table waiting for us. Well, the note on it said it was waiting for some Henry, who had the table reserved, but fortunately, Henry was not about to come until half past eight and it was just seven, so we borrowed the table from Henry.

Inside, it was a mix of people, older beer guys discussing politics, art students sharing philosophical thoughts, some tourists. I ordered one of their specials, potato soup in bread, and it was a big surprise. The soup came in a crispbread, with breadcrumb scooped out, it looked lovely, like a soup pot, even with a tiny crunchy bread cover over it. It was fun to eat soup and the pot it came it, too. And the price, it was not much, 42 CZK. It was really tasty with a beer. They offered Pilsen and Svijany, which is good and worth a try. They also offered strong eight percent dark Svijany. My friend tried roasted goose liver with onion, pomegranate, and with hot mixed cranberries poured over it. Not bad, but nothing special.

We were waiting for quite a long time to get the food, but I understand it since they had to toast the bread, etc. Maybe small disadvantage, I was eating the ‿plate’ with my hands, and they got a bit dirty then, so I needed to go wash them in the toilets which were ok, clean enough. Trust me, there was not another way how to eat it. What was disturbing was an occasional applause of pensioners in the big hall downstairs. There were many of them, a reunion or something. As I later read, the name of the restaurant is derived from the patriotic guild that came into existence in the 19th century, and their job was to refresh old traditions, customs, etc. Reputedly, the guild was very popular then. That explained both the group and the setting, which looked like when you have stopped time for, say, 70-80 years. Not all of it, but flags, posters, or almanacs on the wall.

Anyway, if you are wandering in these little streets at Lesser Town, I recommend this place as both a refreshment or a target destination for it keeps the unique atmosphere of old Prague which some of you might be looking for. The prices are fair, people are friendly, and it’s not yet full of tourist, unless you meet someone who read this post as well :-)

May 23, 14:01 (Filed under: Prague pubs, restaurants and cafes )

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  1. I’ve spent time in Europe but never in Prague. I’ve enjoyed your site, thank you!

    Chef JP    May 26, 16:20    #